Raising pork can be a tough business for producers, who've lately been watching feed prices rise along with the cost of corn . That's one reason why a small but growing number of former commodity pork producers are trying their luck with specialty breeds instead. These premium pigs, raised on small farms with methods that appeal to consumers, can also fetch a premium price. Take Iowa farmer Randy Hilleman. In 1998, he switched from conventional hogs to Berkshire hogs, whose meat is fattier and can hold water better. "The Berkshire has certain qualities [color and marbling] that makes it better eating and more enjoyable," says Hilleman. "The fat is what gives you the flavor." Berkshires have fewer piglets per litter than other breeds and require a lot of feed, which means they cost more to bring to market. But Hilleman and another farmer in State Center, Iowa, realized that if they marketed their pork chops directly to restaurants, they could charge more. In 1998, they founded Eden
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